It all began just over three years ago, when it pleased His Majesty to send Susie Reilly’s daughter to Saint Helena as Deputy Governor. Ann Kaiser, hearing that Susie was planning a maternal visit, mentioned that her grandfather was born on St Helena and she had always wanted to know about her family history.

Susie then found herself ploughing through the island’s archives; a task not made easier by most of the island’s population having the same surname, though her search was eventually crowned with success. But more of that later.

The talk started with Susie giving a very comprehensive presentation of the island’s history and the peoples who had occupied it: Portuguese mariners, the East India Company, the Dutch (unsuccessfully), African slaves, Chinese labourers and Boer prisoners of war. In each case, almost every one of the would-be residents filed away St Helena in the “too difficult” folder and left as soon as they could, but a handful of resolute remnants stayed on and tried to scrape a living on a volcanic rock in the middle of nowhere. The result is that the “Saints”, as the islanders call themselves, have one of the most genetically mixed populations in the world.

Even today, life is not easy. Fresh produce arrives in a boat from South Africa, every 4-6 weeks. Once that has been consumed, the islanders live mainly on tinned food until the next boatload arrives. Tomato paste sandwiches are part of the staple diet! The craggy geography of the island makes getting around time-consuming and difficult, and requires much duplication of public facilities. A population of 4,000 is served by an Anglican cathedral and ten Parish Churches, plus many other denominations. There are three schools, although one is not currently in use as many younger Saints have left due to lack of work and/or excitement. All this on an island which is smaller than the Isle of Wight, and has fewer people than Pulborough.

Susie succeeded in locating a cousin of Ann’s, and they both set off for the island earlier this year. Access is by a plane which flies once a week from South Africa, with a stopover in Namibia. Ann and Susie’s flight was delayed for six hours, waiting for a large package to be carried along the aisle. This turned out to be the new life raft, as the old one had reached its “sell-by” date. Very important when flying for 11 hours over completely empty seas. One of the other passengers was a lady who had left St Helena as a child and was now going back for the first time, over 80 years later. The new Chief of Police was also on board, although no-one was able to work out which of the passengers he was. Ann and Susie’s return flight was delayed by a day due to bad weather preventing the plane from making its outward flight, as often happens. This did not cause any problems with their accommodation, as the next occupants were waiting for the same plane to take off, so that they could fly in!

Ann turned out to have no less than 11 cousins and Susie and Ann met up with most of them every Sunday for afternoon tea, which is an important ritual on Saint Helena. During the interval, we had the opportunity to sample some typical Helenian food, which was very reminiscent of an afternoon tea from the 1950’s.

The talk covered much, much more – the unique St Helena plover, which is flightless and has a peculiar run, rather like Groucho Marx chasing a pretty waitress;  the rock which rings like a bell when two pieces are struck together; and so on, not to mention the Emperor Napoleon’s incarceration and demise there – and of course, Jonathan, who is… Well, you’ll have to come to the next talk to find that out!

Susie finished by telling us how much she had enjoyed her time among the warm, friendly people of St Helena. For her, it was a place which slows your mind, soothes and settles your soul, and stays with you long after you leave. Her daughter has now been posted somewhere much less remote, but Susie is very tempted to go back to the island.

In conclusion, Susie passed on two Helenian thoughts. From Ann’s cousins: “the family that prays together, stays together”. And from a hand-made bookmark that a very distinguished lady gave her in Church: “Let your heart overflow with gratitude, and your joy will increase.”